Don`t Just Pass Through Lima!

If people have extra time available on their Peru tour they should strongly consider spending a day in the Peruvian capital, Lima. Lima has a poor reputation in many quarters, which is no longer deserved in our opinion, and as such many clients elect not to spend much time in this mad city.

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The Modern District of Miraflores

It is true that our North American clients do not have very much vacation time every year and as a tour operator we have to maximize their time, i.e. spending more on the highlights of Cusco, Machu Picchu, Lake Titicaca, the Sacred Valley of the Incas, Colca Canyon etc often at the expense of time in Lima.

Lima is a huge sprawling city with probably around 10 million inhabitants, although its difficult to count them all! Its a city of great contrasts; extremely wealthy people living in safe, clean districts such as San Isidro, Miraflores and La Molina and extremely poor people living in places like La Victoria, Barrios Altos and Callao; A great cultural and historical wealth in colonial and pre-Inca structures in great contrast with thousands of recent ramshackle structures on the city edge; people living hand to mouth every day and on the other hand world class restaurants showcasing the incredible food of Peru; Two brand new mass transit systems versus the absolute chaos on city roads. The city is a interesting place to visit!

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Lima Cathedral in the Plaza de Armas

We run a unique city tour which we have named “Culture and Contrasts” for the reasons above and many more. Visitors get a more rounded overview of the city.

To read more about this particular tour CLICK HERE!

The old colonial heart of Lima is the most visited area when clients spend time here which is about 25 minutes from the Miraflores district where 95% of tourists spend the night. This old heart of the metropolis is steeped in history and really warrants a tour, see a short video of the Plaza de Armas main square HERE!

The city has a number of mud brick pyramids left over by cultures that became extinct thousands of years ago, the most famous being Pachacamac and the Huaca Pucllana (with its excellent restaurant). There are some good museums of which the Larco Herrera is a great choice with its huge quantity and range of pre-Inca pottery. People find the erotic pottery section particularly fun!

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Peruvian Erotic Pottery

Lima is becoming known as the culinary capital of South America. Peruvian food has always been great but cutting edge chefs have created a new angle on most of the traditional dishes which use all of the incredible ingredients that this mega bio-diverse country has to offer. Make sure you ask us for our recomendations. Take your pick from dishes from the coast, the highlands and the jungle, all very different and packed with flavor.

In line with all other developing world cities Lima has plenty of problems, as does Peru as a whole, but it is well worth the stop over and the clients that give the city a chance say that they have really enjoyed themselves and will never forget the experience.

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Peruvian Driving Tests; An Ex-Pat Experience

I was talking to someone the other day about the new regulations surrounding getting your driving license in Peru and it made me remember the unusual way that I got mine many years ago. New regulations supposedly mean that applicants must have at least a secondary education in order to even apply to take the test. This is very difficult for me to believe given the number of taxi drivers coming from rural areas where education levels are very poor and I also don’t understand what your education level has to do with being a good driver?

Around 10 years ago I went along to the driving test center in Lima with an American ex-pat friend of mine not really knowing what would be involved in getting the Peruvian license, we mistakenly thought that being well educated and having driven for 20 years (and in possession of valid driving licenses from other countries) would facilitate the process. We were wrong!

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Lima traffic - not for the faint hearted!

At that time I didn’t have my regular SUV that I now use day-to-day but I had my treasured classic Ford Mustang (still running nicely today) and Matt and I decided to drive down in that to take the test. The first thing that struck us was the sheer quantity of people waiting, hundreds and hundreds of people in numerous lines, our blood ran cold and the first thought was “how can we jump these lines?” It’s a true reflection on the mindset of many here, and around Latin America in general, that when faced with situations like this you think “who do I know?” in order to get them to ease the process. If you don’t know someone usually a small financial consideration will fix the problem (I know its not correct, but its just how it is here).

Matt thought that he knew someone in the managers office so off we went to knock on the door of the administration office. Matt found out that he didn’t know anyone there but while talking to the manager we essentially said “is there a way of speeding up the process” implying that money could change hands. Strangely he didn’t look very impressed by the proposal but when he glanced out the window he asked if the Mustang was mine, and then insisted that I let him drive it. He did some doughnuts around the car park and came back with a grin on his face and said that we should go with him.

We were presented with a written test in english which was so badly translated that we couldn’t even understand it, so we asked for the Spanish one. We were then told the answers by the person on duty and susequently passed! We then went for the medicals, which we did actually pass on our own merrits. Then came the physical driving test which involves driving around a course with junctions, circles, traffic lights and parking areas, normally not a problem but this course is designed for Tico cars.

The Tico is a tiny car produced by Daewoo used by probably 50% of all taxi drivers in Peru, this car is a semi death trap and many people feel that it shouldn’t even be on the road. In any case there are thousands of them and therefore people learn and take their tests in them, hence the driving course being specially set up for these tiny cars. As I tried to drive round the course in my Mustang I had to cut corners and park across 2 spaces, not a problem as I heard the manager say to the examiner “just ignore this guy!”.

A few hours later, after being escorted to the front of the queue to get my photo taken, I left with my new Peruvian driving license which causes amusement and bewilderment among the traffic police that occasionally stop me for routine checks. The old cliché of “you learn to drive once you have passed your test” is very true here in Peru where road conditions are a little crazy. Check out my Peruvian driving tips here and happy motoring.

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Marcapata – Roofing and Drinking

Strange but true! http://www.escapedtoperu.com/english/peru-marcapata-roofing-drinking.htm

marcapata1 Marcapata   Roofing and Drinking

Drunk Roofing Crew

 

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Alternate Treks to Machu Picchu

If you were thinking of hiking the classic Inca Trail to Machu Picchu but it has been sold out due to high demand you might want to consider some of the great alternative Inca Trail treks in the Cusco region. The Peruvian government has imposed limits on the number of people who can hike the trail and has established strict regulations which lead to people not getting permits if they dont book a while in advance. For detailed information regarding how many spaces are open each day please contact us at Escaped to Peru in Cusco.

Salcantay Trek

One of the alternative Inca Trails to consider is the Salcantay Trekwhich has no limitations on spaces or permits and is open to everyone. When planning to walk this trek, it is preferable to reserve through a tour company like us so that we can take care of transport, mules, porters, tents, sleeping bags and food as well as a guide to make sure you get to Machu Picchu!

The Salkantay Trail is not particularly tough for more experienced hikers but as with all treks in the Andes it is high altitude walking. This trek offers more privacy and authenticity than the more frequented classic Inca Trail and has a great deal of glorious scenery.

The end of the first day takes you very close to the mountains of Salkantay and Humantay. At a height of 6,274 meters, Mt. Salcantay has a glacier-capped summit, rising amongst the lovely country scenery of pastures, rural farms and glacial streams. After crossing a 15,000-foot pass and dropping down the other side of the mountain you find yourself in one narrow valley after another with great vistas with changing elevations and ecosystems. The end of the trail is a somewhat tough ascent but it offers a splendid view of Machu Picchu in the distance from a ruin on mountain opposing it, a view that not many people enjoy. Completing the trail is a short train ride to Aguas Calientes.

Lares Trek

Another alternative to the Inca Trail is the Lares Trail that takes walkers off the beaten tourist paths and through a part of Peru with spectacular scenery that has changed little over the past 500 years. This Inca trail offers the chance to view the lives of Andean farmers and see their thatched stone houses surrounded by herds of llamas and alpacas. This trail also does not require permits and therefore is much easier to arrange when the classic route is sold out.

The Lares Trail is a great alternative for the more experienced hiker as it includes three passes over 4,200 meters. Starting in the village of Quishuarani the route climbs to these high passes that offer tremendous views of mountains capped with glaciers and vistas of the Quellacocha lakes which are a dazzling turquoise color reflecting the surrounding peaks. The trail then descends to the village of Cuncani and passes along the base of Nevado Pumachuanca before descending to the village of Yanachuara in the Sacred Valley. You board a bus to Ollantaytambo and then a train to Aguas Calientes. The final day includes the landmark visit to the Machu Picchu citadel.

Choquequirao Trek

Another hike suitable for the more experienced trekker is the Choquequirao trek, which takes you to the beautiful and isolated ruins of Choquequirao located on a ledge high above the fierce Apurimac River. These ruins are considered to be very fine in design and of being of high status within the Inca culture given the quality of the main double-jamb doorways and niches found throughout the site.

The trek typically starts in the town of Cachora some 3 hours from Cusco by vehicle and walking from there climbs to Capuliyoc where great views of the Apurimac Valley can be enjoyed as well as the peaks of Oadrayac and Wayna Cachora, all capped in snow. A steep descent which is hard on the knees takes you to Rosalina Beach besides the Apurimac River where the night is spent followed by an extensive hike upward the next day to Choquequirao. You will then spend time visiting the ruins, maybe spotting a Condor swooping overhead. The trek returns to Coca Masana by way of Raqaypata with the return three or four hour bus ride to Cusco.

Although perhaps not as popular as the Inca Trail, these trails may take you away from the relative hustle and bustle of the Inca Trail but can offer just as interesting and exciting alternatives. They are also much easier to arrange at shorter notice with virtually no restriction on numbers of trekkers. Regulations are always changing in Latin America, such is the nature of the authorities here, so please check with us when you are making your plans. Feel free to check out our extensive information, Latin America websiteBlogs and Faceb0ok for news and reviews…..

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Peru Tour Packages in the Land of the Incas

Well, what can we say! Peru is a truly amazing travel destination with something for everyone and in all price ranges. One of our Peru tour packages will be tailored to meet your exact requirements with regard to travel style and budget so that you get what you want out of one of the most biodiverse and culturally rich places on the planet.

For those of you who like to experience ancient civilizations Peru is most famous for the legacy left by the Incas, but there are other cultural layers too. The north of Peru was home to the Chimu and the Moche for example, and in the south the Nazca people left their mark too.

Many of the people in villages and small towns in the Peruvian countryside live much as they have for hundreds of years and maintain their ancient traditions and dress. Much of rural Peru is a living museum and the regional differences are fascinating.

Peru tour packages with the Escaped Travel Group are made to measure to suit our clients, if you wish to visit more Inca ruins than handicraft markets, see more high altitude or jungle wildlife than museums, do more adventure sports or trekking than wandering colonial streets and Inca villages, we make it happen. You choose whether you have shared or private tours, you choose whether to pamper yourself in 5 star hotels or save your cash in mid range places, which places and sites you want to visit in which order (with our expert advice of course!).

Give us the chance to design and deliver one of our customized Peru tour packages which will be a trip of a lifetime. Call us toll free on the numbers at the top of the page, send us an email or write on our Blogs or Facebook.

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